Indigenous arts

Watch now: Caring for the Collection - Celebrating 50 years of the AFA Art Collection

See how the AFA cares for an exquisite new acquisition by Métis Cree visual artist, Sharon Rose Kootenay, and the different steps we take to document, catalogue and preserve her work for the benefit of all Albertans.

The artworks in the AFA Art Collection mean so much to the artists, to the staff that work with them, and to the many, many Albertans who have an opportunity to view them through exhibitions, art placement programs, or even online in our Virtual Museum.

Watch:

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50th Anniversary of the AFA Art Collection

Established in 1972, the AFA Art Collection is a unique representation of the history, development and achievements of Alberta's visual arts community. Today, the AFA is proud to manage one of the strongest, most active provincial art collections in Canada.

On September 29, 2022, the AFA began celebration for the 50th Anniversary of the establishment of the AFA Art Collection. Learn more about how we are celebrating throughout 2022 and 2023.

We are proud to diligently care and work with each of our more than 9,000 artworks in Alberta's public art collection. This is the second episode of a five-part series about the AFA Art Collection.

Videos produced by Hidden Story Productions.

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Watch how the AFA cares for an exquisite new acquisition by Métis Cree visual artist, Sharon Rose Kootenay, in the 2nd video in its documentary series

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Watch how the AFA cares for an exquisite new acquisition by Métis Cree visual artist, Sharon Rose Kootenay, in the 2nd video in its documentary series

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Watch how the AFA cares for an exquisite new acquisition by Métis Cree visual artist, Sharon Rose Kootenay, in the 2nd video in its series

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Supporting Indigenous arts in Alberta

To celebrate 25 years of the AFA, we’re taking a look back at how we came to be, favourite milestones, and some of the amazing artists we’ve encountered along the way. 

By Sarah Pocklington, former Indigenous Arts Development Consultant

In March 2005, the AFA initiated a three-phase consultation process to explore and understand the needs of Indigenous artists and arts organizations in Alberta. The first phase, completed in June 2005, focused on visiting Indigenous communities across the province to determine the needs of the communities in relation to arts funding. The second phase in October 2005 focused on secondary research and included interviews with service providers working with Aboriginal communities. The third and final phase focused on consulting and interviewing Indigenous artists and arts organizations throughout Alberta. The draft recommendations for phase three were completed in April 2006.

From this exploration, we arrived at the following key focus areas:

Outreach – building relationships and creating an Indigenous Outreach Strategy;

Capacity Building – Access to training and development opportunities related to grant writing, marketing, planning and communications for Indigenous artists and organizations;

Advocate – “Spreading the word” about Indigenous arts;

Support – allocating funding for amateur and professional Indigenous artists and arts organizations;

Networking – creating and supporting networking opportunities for Indigenous artists, organizations and service providers;

Continued Dialogue – Encourage and support dialogue with Indigenous communities through consultation and research processes, listening circles, events and conferences.

The AFA hired an Indigenous Outreach Worker on an eight-month contract as a part of the 2006-2007 AFA Action Plan. The plan introduced a pilot grant program for arts organizations, along with workshops targeted specifically to Indigenous artists with the goal of increasing awareness of AFA programming and encouraging applications. In 2006-2007 the AFA provided $95,205 to Indigenous arts organizations with $50,000 support from the Ministry of Aboriginal Affairs and Northern Development.

 

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Today, the AFA has a full-time Indigenous Arts Development Consultant who oversees the Indigenous Arts Individual Project Grant Stream and coordinates the Alberta’s Future Leaders Program for First Nations and Metis communities across Alberta. In 2015-16 the AFA provided $143,056.98 in project funding for Indigenous project grants. (Indigenous artists can apply to any project grant funding opportunity; however this project grant program provides specific support to Inidgenous artists).

Recently, the Truth and Reconciliation Commission of Canada: Calls to Action included the recommendation of a renewed strategy to promote the arts as a fundamental aspect of reconciliation.

There has also been a demonstrated response on behalf of provincial arts organizations to engage with Indigenous communities in new and expanding ways. Major institutions like the Art Gallery of Alberta have initiated programming as part of their ongoing mandates to include Indigenous artists and their practices.

 

 

The City of Edmonton 2016 Arts and Culture Hall of Fame video

Indigenous artists are also receiving greater public recognition for their talents. Recently, Cold Lake’s Alex Janvier was inducted into the City of Edmonton’s 2016 Arts and Culture Hall of Fame. He also received an Honorary Degree, Doctor of Fine Arts from the Ontario College of Art and Design and will be featured in a 2017 solo retrospective at the National Gallery of Canada (which you can read more about in our next blog post!). In 2015 the AFA was pleased to announce the award of a public art commission to Cree artist Brenda Draney for the new Centre for Arts and Culture at MacEwan University, set to be unveiled in 2017 in Edmonton.

Meeting the needs of supporting Indigenous artists, arts organizations and communities is a high priority for the Alberta Foundation for the Arts, the Arts Branch and the Ministry of Culture and Tourism.

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In March 2005, the AFA initiated a three-phase consultation process to explore and understand the needs of Indigenous artists and arts organizations.

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Supporting Aboriginal arts in Alberta
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In March 2005, the AFA initiated a three-phase consultation process to explore and understand the needs of Aboriginal artists and arts organizations.

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Supporting Aboriginal arts in Alberta
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In March 2005, AFA initiated a 3-phase consultation process to explore and understand the needs of Aboriginal artists and arts organizations

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Survey Results | The New Experience Economy - Wave 2

The Alberta Foundation for the Arts is pleased to be a funding partner in this collaboration with Stone-Olafson and other community leaders to develop a long-term research investigation and evaluate how current conditions will reshape Albertans’ attitudes and behaviours towards social and group activities, across a variety of sectors. The purpose of this work is to give leaders of community sports, recreation, arts and culture, professional sports, active living, heritage, tourism or hospitality sectors relevant facts about local audiences that they will need to bring life back to our communities.

The initiative is being funded by: 

This research is being conducted in six waves over the course of the next year. This is a community resource that is FREE to access and results from the second wave of research are now available. The second wave of research builds on the baseline established in May and June by delving into attitudes on comfort, spending, the impact of media, and audience expectations.

Findings and implications for Alberta organizations through Wave 2 results include:

  • Support for the pace of re-opening grows but there are still lingering pockets of disagreement.
  • Comfort levels are creating a new baseline of engagement.
  • Increasing gaps are appearing between audience segments on the pandemic.
  • As restrictions lift, Albertans are pulled by their social motivations and perceptions of safety outdoors.
  • Engagement is (potentially) perishable.
  • Staying connected will mean the development of innovative and hybrid experiences.
  • In a crowded media space, audiences are still listening.
  • Spending is obviously being impacted

The report makes the following recommendations for organizations:

  • Comfort levels are not rebounding just because restrictions are lifting. Organizations need to temper expectations about reconnecting with audiences. You will not be reengaging them in the same you used to. It will take time and it will look different. Plan on it and prepare.
  • Getting audiences comfortable enough to attend is vital. Some of this will rebound over time, and some will be addressed by government, but there are opportunities to build confidence in what you are doing to safeguard their health. Show the steps you are taking and the tools being employed to protect audiences. Building confidence with what you are doing will help increase comfort and, in turn, consideration.
  • Audiences and markets are changing. There are new barriers to address and consider. Organizations will need to understand shifting mindsets of different target audiences in order to engage effectively. This could be a deep opportunity to engage for many organizations who can capitalize on their motivations and expectations.
  • Find your voice. Audiences are listening closely for news around the pandemic and are eager for updates, information or promotions. They want to know when experiences will be available again and are receptive to traditional marketing messages again. In fact, they expect it.
  • Adapting means developing new product and experiences to consume. Staying put or offering what you used to won’t necessarily work. Organizations that can move into hybrid offers (not simply digital alone or in-person alone) that still leverage intrinsic motivations will be well positioned to protect their revenue from competition.

Download the reports:

You can subscribe to receive notifications when the new reports are available by visiting stone-olafson.com

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Second wave of results of a long-term study to gauge Alberta audiences' attitudes towards returning to live arts and culture venues and events.

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Survey Results | The New Experience Economy - Wave 4

This research is being conducted in six waves over the course of the next year. This is a community resource that is FREE to access and results from the fourth wave of research are now available. 

Findings for Alberta organizations from Wave 4 results include:

  • Public perceptions reflect the low point of the pandemic at this time.
  • Albertans are adapting to and following the rules.
  • Change in habits during the pandemic appears to be additive, not alternative
  • Contexts frame marketing in this environment - messages will need to be shifted, media strategies evaluated, and some types of voices changed.
  • Engagement is on hold.
  • Travel within the province is an option. 

What are the implications for Alberta organizations?

  • When conditions permit, recognize you will be reconnecting with a weary population who are more anxious than before. Messages and offers will need to adjust to reflect this reality.
  • As Albertans accept and get used to the restrictions, they expect others to follow them too. A large percentage of those surveyed indicate others not following protocols will dissuade them from attending events/participating in activities. The same applies for not seeing sufficient safeguards in place.
  • As restrictions start to lift, Albertans are likely to start figuring out how to balance a new set of activities they enjoy with their usual activities they want to get back to. And for organizations, that means breaking through a larger competitive set to capture the attention of their audiences. For those that offer registered or directed experiences this may be an even bigger challenge now that people are also adding in more self-directed experiences.
  • Organizations are likely going to need a multi-layered media strategy that can reach influencers who can help propel the message. To be clear, an influencer strategy doesn’t mean a pure social media strategy. It means a strategy of messages and media that are repeatable to others.
  • Organizations have to be prepared to re-engage in stages. When current restrictions lift there will be some appetite to explore and potential opportunities to meet them online or outdoors. In a post-pandemic environment, audiences are very likely to get active again.
  • Focusing on broad messages that reflect a drive to escape everyday stresses and deliver on social motivations will work well to help motivate intra-provincial travel. Reinforcing these main messages with reassurances about flexibility in booking and safety will also be helpful to finalize a decision.

Download the reports:

You can subscribe to receive notifications when the new reports are available by visiting stone-olafson.com

About the project

The Alberta Foundation for the Arts is pleased to be a funding partner in this collaboration with Stone-Olafson and other community leaders to develop a long-term research investigation and evaluate how current conditions will reshape Albertans’ attitudes and behaviours towards social and group activities, across a variety of sectors. The purpose of this work is to give leaders of community sports, recreation, arts and culture, professional sports, active living, heritage, tourism or hospitality sectors relevant facts about local audiences that they will need to bring life back to our communities.

The initiative is being funded by: 

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Fourth wave of results of a long-term study to gauge Alberta audiences' attitudes towards returning to live arts and culture venues and events.

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Spotlight on Arts Audiences - Wave 2 Results

The AFA is supporting a two-year research project conducted by Stone-Olafson on current engagement of arts audiences in Alberta. We are pleased to share the second set of results ("Wave 2").

This work was developed for the arts sector exclusively and is designed to provide specific, relevant, and reliable facts to support the leaders in the arts sector as they seek to understand their audiences and grow attendance.

Key topic areas for Wave 2 include:

  • Exploring arts audiences' engagement and general perceptions
  • Understanding audiences’ preferences for content, programming, and ticket purchasing
  • Understanding opportunities for increasing support and engagement through fund development

Results

Watch the team from Stone-Olafson report on the findings from the first wave of research in the Spotlight on Arts Audiences project

Download the reports:

About the project

The AFA has partnered with the Rozsa FoundationCalgary Arts DevelopmentCalgary FoundationEdmonton Arts Council, and Edmonton Community Foundation, to support the Spotlight on Arts Audiences research project. The work will survey arts-inclined audiences in Calgary, Edmonton, and across the province to provide data that is useful and timely for arts leaders and organizations three times per year over the next two years.

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Second set of results of a long-term study on understanding Alberta arts audiences. Watch a presentation of the report.

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Spotlight on Arts Audiences - Wave 2 Results
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Second set of results of a long-term study on understanding Alberta arts audiences. Watch a presentation of the report.

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Spotlight on Arts Audiences - Wave 2 Results
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Second set of results of a long-term study on understanding Alberta arts audiences. Watch a presentation of the report.

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Watch: The Art of Hide Tanning - an AFA Commemorative Art Project

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See the video of The Art of Hide Tanning: commissioned Indigenous artworks featuring the traditional hide tanning process taught at Portage College.

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The Art of Hide Tanning - Tradition Inspiring the Present and Future is a series of commissions to link the past, present and future of Indigenous art.

This project features new works by Amy Malbeuf and Ruby Sweetman created through the traditional thirteen-step Woodland Cree hide tanning process taught at Portage College in Lac la Biche, Alberta. The completed works will be exhibited at the Museum of Aboriginal Peoples' Art and Artifacts at Portage College. Learn more about the hide tanning process on Portage College's website.

Ruby Sweetman is of mixed Cree ancestry and has been a professional artist and an instructor in the Native Arts and Culture Program for over 20 years.

Amy Malbeuf is an award winning Métis multidisciplinary visual artist from Rich Lake, Alberta who works in a variety of mediums such as caribou hair tufting, beadwork, installation, performance, and video.

  • Scroll through the slideshow above to see images of the artists and their works.

If you cannot make it up to Lac la Biche to see the exhibition in person, fear not; you can see a preview of the artworks and the hide tanning process in the video below. 

Portage College also made a video about this Commemorative Art Project. Watch it on their YouTube channel.

These works travelled to Edmonton and were exhibited at the Alberta Craft Discovery Gallery, from April 14 until May 26, 2018.

Check out other AFA Commemorative Art Projects.

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Watch: The Art of Hide Tanning - an AFA Commemorative Arts Project
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See the video of The Art of Hide Tanning: commissioned Indigenous artworks featuring the traditional hide tanning process taught at Portage College.

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Watch: The Art of Hide Tanning - an AFA Commemorat
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See the video of The Art of Hide Tanning: commissioned Indigenous artworks featuring the traditional hide tanning process taught at Portage College.

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Artist
Ruby Sweetman
Title
Traditional hide tanning materials
Year
2017
Collections Images Slideshow
Ruby Sweetman
Traditional hide tanning materials
2017
Ruby Sweetman
Traditional Ladies Hand Bag
2017
home tanned smoked elk hide, porcupine quill, red melton trade cloth
Amy Malbeuf (Photo Credit: Jordan Bennett)
between yesterday and tomorrow
2017
Home tanned smoked moose hide, polyurethane tarp, caribou hair tufting, plastic beads, antique and new glass beads
Amy Malbeuf (Photo Credit: Jordan Bennett)
between yesterday and tomorrow (detail)
2017
Home tanned smoked moose hide, polyurethane tarp, caribou hair tufting, plastic beads, antique and new glass beads
Amy Malbeuf
Traditional Hide Flesher
2017
Moose bone and hide
Ruby Sweetman
Traditional Hide Tanning Tools
2017
Moose bone, deer bone, birch wood sapling, metal

Watch: Iinisikimm - an AFA Commemorative Arts Project

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See the video of Iinisikimm, a nighttime lantern performance and homecoming for the buffalo of Banff National Park.

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Iinisikimm is an immersive puppet-lantern performance that celebrates the reintegration of buffalo into the natural ecosystem of Banff National Park. Learn more about Iinisikimm here.

This past August, audiences in Banff and Calgary experienced outdoor performances featuring hand-made lantern puppets, drumming from Eya-Hey Nakoda, and performances by the Czapno Theatre Ensemble. The puppets shared the story of the buffalo, told by Blackfoot trickster God Napi.

The Iinisikimm group will also be producing a comic book, estimated to be released later in 2018.

If you missed the performances, fear not; you can experience a taste of Iinisikimm through the video below. 

Iinisikimm was created with support from the Alberta Foundation for the Arts Commemorative Art Projects funding. Stay tuned to our news feed for more videos from the other Commemorative Art Projects.

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Iinisikimm - an AFA Commemorative Arts Project
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See the video of Iinisikimm, a nighttime lantern performance and homecoming for the buffalo of Banff National Park.

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Iinisikimm
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See the video of Iinisikimm, a nighttime lantern performance and homecoming for the buffalo of Banff National Park.

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Peter Balkwill and the Czapno Ensemble
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Iinisikimm
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Peter Balkwill and the Czapno Ensemble
Iinisikimm
2017

Women's History Month: Celebrating the diversity of women through the arts

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Celebrate women's history month by visiting local exhibitions curated by women and featuring artwork from the AFA Art Collection.

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Women's History Month
 

October is Women's History Month: a time to celebrate the achievements of the women and girls from our past and present. We encourage Albertans to celebrate women in the arts by engaging with local organizations and artists.

To celebrate this month, we are pleased to highlight three current Alberta-based exhibitions curated by women, and featuring a few artworks from the AFA's very own collection. 

Red Deer Museum + Art Gallery - Shirley Rimer: A Chronicle in Clay 
Curated by Mary-Beth Laviolette
On now until December 2, 2023

Installation view of Shirley Rimer: A Chronicle in Clay.
Images provided by Red Deer Museum + Art Gallery.

About the exhibition

A longtime Red Deer resident, Rimer is one reason why the city shines as a centre for ceramic art. A Red Deer College (Polytechnic) graduate, as an instructor, curator and cultural community builder, Rimer’s own artistic accomplishments are the highlight of this special exhibition of ceramic sculpture.

Featuring over 30 artworks made in the past 40 years, a chronicle about their making and Rimer’s personal discovery of clay traditions in other countries: Greece, Turkey, Mexico, India, France, Italy, China and America. They are about handbuilding in clay, reinterpreting the vessel, communicating with colour and reflecting on subjects like family, culture and heritage here in Alberta and abroad.

This exhibition features four Shirley Rimer artworks from the AFA Art Collection:

  • Body Language
  • Village Life
  • Red Fish
  • Purple Flowers

Calgary - Nickle Galleries - The Art of Faye HeavyShield
Curated by Felicia Gay
On now until December 9, 2023


Photo credit: Andy Nichols, LCR PhotoServices., courtesy of the MacKenzie Art Gallery.

Red Dress, 2008, nylon, cotton, metal and paper tags, glass beads.
Collection of the Alberta Foundation for the Arts
The Art of Faye HeavyShield, organized and circulated by the MacKenzie Art Gallery.
Financed by the Government of Canada. Curated by Felicia Gay.

About the exhibition

The Art of Faye HeavyShield will present work that spans forty years of her practice. The exhibition situates HeavyShield as a major contributor to contemporary Indigenous art through her creation of a new aesthetic vocabulary. While bearing a resemblance to conceptual installation, her work is rooted in the deep art history of the Canadian prairies and in personal/communal experience.

This exhibition features Faye HeavyShield's artwork Red Dress, which is from the AFA Art Collection. 

Edmonton - Art Gallery of AlbertaSecond Skin 
Curated by Lindsey Sharman and Danielle Siemens
On now until December 31, 2023 


Photography by Charles Cousins, courtesy of the Art Gallery of Alberta

Left: Caitlin Thompson, Rhizome (Hot Gossip), 2017, Fabric, thread, fake nails, decoy eyes, rhinestones, tassels, cording, buttons, plastic, paint, Velcro. Collection of Alberta Foundation for the Arts. Installation view of Second Skin, Art Gallery of Alberta, 2023.
Right: Pamela Norrish, Outfit for the Afterlife, 2015. Glass beads, nylon thread. Collection of the Alberta Foundation for the Arts. Installation view of Second Skin, Art Gallery of Alberta, 2023

About the exhibition

The works in this exhibition trace the boundaries of the body and reference garments and adornment in many forms. These literal and symbolic objects of attire allow their ‘wearer’ to explore a myriad of issues including identity and representation, objectification and empowerment, mythology and history, imagined futures and the afterlife. 

This exhibition features two artworks from the AFA Art Collection: 

  • Outfit for the Afterlife - Pamela Noorish
  • Rhizome (Hot Gossip) - Caitlin Thompson

 

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Women's History Month: Celebrating the diversity of women through the arts
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Celebrate women's history month by visiting local exhibitions curated by women and featuring artwork from the AFA Art Collection

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Women's History Month: Celebrating women
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Celebrate women's history month by visiting local exhibitions curated by women and featuring artwork from the AFA Art Collection

Collections Database Image
Image
Artist
Pamela Noorish
Title
Outfit for the Afterlife
Year
2015
Medium
Glass beads, nylon thread
Collections Images Slideshow
Shirley Rimer
BODY LANGUAGE
1991
earthenware
Shirley Rimer
Village Life
2007
porcelain
Pamela Noorish
OUTFIT FOR THE AFTERLIFE
2010-2015
glass beads and nylon thread
Faye HeavyShield
Red Dress
2008
nylon, cotton, metal and paper tags, glass beads
Shirley Rimer
Red Fish
2007
porcelain
Shirley Rimer
Purple Flowers
2007
porcelain

Truth and Reconciliation Day 2023

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A message of acknowledgement of Truth and Reconciliation Day from the Alberta Foundation for the Arts board of directors.

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Featured artwork:
GRANDE ENTRY
By Jessica Desmoulin – 2019 – felted wool, beads and leather
Collection of the Alberta Foundation for the Arts
 

A message from Paul R. Baay on behalf of the Alberta Foundation for the Arts (AFA)

On this third National Day for Truth and Reconciliation (also known as “Orange Shirt” Day), on September 30, 2023, I will take some time to reflect on how the AFA can support and advance the Truth and Reconciliation Commission of Canada's Calls to Action, published in 2015. 

At the AFA, our mandate is to support, encourage and promote artistic activity for all residents of Alberta, which includes lands that are parts of Treaty 4, Treaty 6, Treaty 7, Treaty 8 and Treaty 10, as well as eight Métis Settlements. We primarily work in the area of contemporary artistic activity which, as the legacy of colonization and Canada's residential system continues to be brought to the fore, will be more and more reflected, examined, and resonated by artists of all backgrounds and disciplines in contemporary practice.

Our job is to continue to encourage and help increase participation and arts education by Indigenous artists. Our job is to continue to celebrate the unique artistic and cultural expressions of the mosaic of Indigenous peoples that reside in Alberta. And, our job is to continue to promote the exchange of ideas and artistic collaborations between Indigenous and non-Indigenous artists and arts workers to help build mutual respect and understanding in our arts community. 

That's why our board decided to nurture and promote Equity, Diversity, Inclusion, and Accessibility through arts-related programming by Indigenous, visible minorities, or deaf and disability artists to engage audiences in and through the arts through the 2023 cycle of our Organization Activation Projects grant program. While the AFA will provide up to $20,000 for projects by a single organization, we will increase that maximum amount to up to $50,000 for partnership projects. 

We at the AFA encourage all Albertans to be more informed about the history and legacy of residential schools, and to explore the rich culture and artistic expression of Indigenous peoples of Turtle Island.

About the featured artwork:
Grande Entry by Jessica Desmoulin

This artwork was acquired through the AFA's Art Acquisition by Application program in 2020. This program is designed to acquire contemporary works of art by any eligible Alberta artist through a competitive application program. 

  • This artwork, as well as Autumn Sky, were both part of 38 artworks purchased through this program in 2020. 

At the AFA, we actively support Indigenous Arts as a unique, distinct arts discipline. We also collect artworks by Indigenous artists through the AFA Art Collection to preserve, exhibit and promote. I continue encourage everyone reading this message to visit the AFA Virtual Museum and view the Indigenous collection as part of your learning and reflection on Truth and Reconciliation Day.

About the Artist

Jessica Desmoulin is Ojibway of the Pic River First Nation. As a child, she lived in Rochester, AB and later in Sparwood, BC. She currently lives with her family in Edmonton, AB.

After the birth of her second child, Desmoulin developed an illness that left her unable to work outside the home. She took this opportunity to approach her art seriously and began to paint canvasses and occasionally buffalo skulls in the new Woodland style. Her works, which connect her to her ancestral memories, explore the essential role colour plays in creating a design and reflect nature and the patterns in its creations, such as the rings of a tree, the waves in the ocean, the cracks in the earth and the petals on a flower.

Animals often appear in her paintings, both as symbols and reflections of her family and loved ones and as the totems she approaches for spiritual guidance. Her use of copper, silver, gold, and bronze reminds viewers of the precious materials in our environment and that we need to cherish our world.

Desmoulin has participated in several regional exhibitions, including "Patterns in Nature", "Animal Speak", and "Nurturing the Spirit" at Edmonton’s Bearclaw Gallery (2013, 2014, 2016). Her artwork has been featured on the covers of Alberta Native News (November 2014, September 2016), used as the logo for the Spirit Runner app, which promotes positive lifestyles for aboriginal youth and is held in the collection of the AFA.

See all of Jessica Desmoulin's artworks currently included in the AFA Art Collection.

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Truth and Reconciliation Day 2023
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A message of acknowledgement of Truth and Reconciliation Day from the Alberta Foundation for the Arts board of directors.

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Truth and Reconciliation Day 2023
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A message of acknowledgement of Truth and Reconciliation Day from the Alberta Foundation for the Arts board of directors.

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Jessica Desmoulin
GRANDE ENTRY
2019
Jessica Desmoulin
GRANDE ENTRY
2019
(back view) felted wool, beads and leather